Fashion goes East for spring with Mediterranean inspired looks featuring draped, ruched, wrapped, and folded details. It is not unusual for fashion trends to emerge from other areas of the world and find a way into our favorite designer collections and onto the runways, we’ve seen it before: the Grecian toga, the Japanese kimono, and the Indian sari are just a few trendy-worthy examples.

But, not since the 90s, when MC Hammer rhythmically danced about in a similar baggy pant, bellowing his mantra, “can’t touch this,” did it seem likely that harem-style pants would again be fashionable and make their way into magazines or even our closets. This spring, however, many designers have embraced this look and revamped the harem pant. Typically, these style of pants gather at the waist and ankle with wide flaps at the hips that fold in and button at the waist. This season there are a bevy of cuts ranging from a contemporary jodhpur-like pant to a traditional parachute-style that is loose fitting and tapered at the calf or ankle — a full hip with side pockets seemed to prevail. Is it possible that this fashion fad has become a trend with designers?

The spring shows were chock full of this billowy pant including Ralph Lauren, Temperley London, Phi, Tracy Reese, Proenza Schouler, Jill Stuart, Elie Tahari, and Tibi. Ralph Lauren paired a classic silk harem pant and double-breast belted jacket with a full-brim hat for a sophisticated safari look. Temperley London’s balloon version was edgy, shown with a studded belt and animal print scarf. Phi’s white silky pant was softened with a two-tone silk cami. Tracy Reese added elegance with a black and silver printed ensemble accessorized with a silver wrap chain. Jill Stuart’s sporty pant was fashioned from a heather grey knit jersey and fitted at the ankle for a bunched look.

Though inspired by an eastern culture, these harem pants flaunt a modern flair that makes them a worthy western trend.

(Photo Credit: style.com)

Photo credit: Flickr.com

The lack of diversity in fashion magazines and on the runway is undeniable. Designers such as Diane Von Furstenberg, Ralph Lauren, and Yves Saint Laurent have been known for adding diversity into their ad campaigns and sprinkling a little color onto the runway. Unlike many other fashion designers, they have been more open to including African American, Asian, and Latino models into their fashion shows, as well as their advertisements.

In July 2008, Italian Vogue did something unprecedented, what no other major fashion publication has done — they produced an “all black” issue shot by world-renowned photographer Steven Meisel. Although, claiming the issue as all black should be done loosely considering the fact that the magazine, which featured stunning models including Tyra Banks, Naomi Campbell, Liya Kebede, Jourdan Dunn, Alek Wek, and even plus-sized model Toccara Jones, also contained advertisements that featured mainly white models.

Was Italian Vogue exploiting the issue of diversity in fashion? Were the black models featured too European looking? Was the all black issue diverse enough? These are just a few of the quandaries that have plagued the highly coveted, best-selling issue.

Fashion designer Tori-Nichel in her studio. (Photo credit: Essence Magazine)

With the veterans in the fashion industry who monopolize the power positions as fashion designers and magazine editors being mostly white, it is not shocking that what we see on the catwalk and the pages of our favorite magazines reflect their image. But, in some respects, fashion is like no other trade or business. Being a form of art, it is expected that the skilled artisans, namely the fashion designers, should have free artistic expression as to who will be the face of their brand.

Many in the industry including African American designer Tori-Nichel, who has been featured in Elle, Essence, and WWD, share this sentiment. Perhaps a non-white fashion insider is better positioned to shine light on this perplexing issue, or at least share their experience.

“I thought the July issue of Italian Vogue was fabulous. I think it was great that [they] exploited black beauty, at last; and there is nothing European looking about Iman or Sessile [Lopez],” Tori-Nichel says about the controversy surrounding the all black issue. “People — black, white, or purple — have to stop being so quick to criticize when a good thing happens and enjoy the moment,” she adds. “I was saddened that American Vogue did not take initiative and do it first.” Read the rest of this entry »